Nawss spy photos

[Guest]

[SuperDave]

wana build me a sand rail .. need money to do that so the car is for sale or trade for a sand rail of equal value... depends on how much of it they want some or all willing to part it out.

I use to have a sandrail after it spent two years on the trailer because there wasn't any place to run it any more I sold it for $1300. After putting more then $8,000. in it over ten year. You should stick with the race car you will get more use out of it.

[Brandon Dye]

naw been drag racing for 28 years all of it with my dad...just not the same without him gona try a little sand and things maybe be back drag racing after kids gone from home, Will still have the Mequick car and the vitamin C car still.

[onjuice]

I lost my dad several years back on Thanksgiving morning, so I know your pain.
Peace Out.

  O.J.  #521   

[onjuice]

Solenoids mounted VW heads.


    O.J.   #521

[Turbo]

Hey O.J.

Looks good but I broke 3 nozzles even with bosses welded on the manifolds before I made brackets to support the weight of the solenoids. Too much weight and vibration with nothing to support them except the nozzles. Just trying to help head off problems at the pass.

[onjuice]

You are the second person to tell me that. Any photos of your brackets? Were you using old aluminum/brass nozzles? These are the new and improved (NOS's words) stainless steel Fogger2 Nozzles and this will be the 5th season with this setup. This is our backup motor and will only be used for a few shake down runs. We are building an 84x94 motor with 2 stages and it will look a lot different and take into account what you mentioned. Thanks for the heads up.

  O.J.  #521

[Turbo]

My nozzles and solenoids were mounted on the outside of the manifolds in order to clear the fan shroud (street/strip car) so that probably wouldn't help you much (sorry, no pics). Your's is the first system that I've seen with the four solenoids since I bought my first system in '86. All the systems I've put together since then use two big solenoids usually mounted in the middle of the case. Actually, nearly all the systems I've seen (on VW's) use two solenoids. You'll figure it out but you really do need to support those solenoids.

Here's an interesting fact.
I always figured that I could make as much hp with nitrous as a turbo car by just going up on the nitrous jets. Several years ago I was at the IHRA Nationals spending time in the pits with the Pro Mods (I love those cars). I didn't know but found out that the nitrous cars have two hundred more cubic inches and weigh 300 lbs less than the blown cars just so they can be competitive in the same class. After that, I sold all my nitrous stuff and have been using turbos ever since.   

[Turbo]

You are the second person to tell me that. Any photos of your brackets? Were you using old aluminum/brass nozzles? These are the new and improved (NOS's words) stainless steel Fogger2 Nozzles and this will be the 5th season with this setup. This is our backup motor and will only be used for a few shake down runs. We are building an 84x94 motor with 2 stages and it will look a lot different and take into account what you mentioned. Thanks for the heads up.

  O.J.  #521

I was using the brass nozzles but even with the stainless nozzles, you're taking a chance that it will wallow out the holes in your manifolds.

[onjuice]

A T-4 turbo is next on my list. I am updating the Gold SB for that purpose. We are having to much fun with the laughing gas rite now though. I am a "Bracket Racer" so all the heads up crap ain't on my radar, at least for now. Run what you brung!!
 
  O.J.  #521   

[onjuice]

This is why I always install a ball valve within easy driver reach. The last thing I do before staging is open valve and after I cross the finish line I close it.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/worst-nitrous-explosion_164337.htm

  O.J.  #521

[The Snowman]

Wow, now that is what I call a fire. That thing just didn't want to stop burning.

The Snowman

[onjuice]

I'm thinkin' the nitrous solenoid or supply line was damaged so it sprayed liquid nitrous on a small carb fire turning it into a blow tourch untill the bottle emptied. If the driver could have shut off the nitrous supply to motor before he bailed, the fire should have gone out rite away. The sparks most likely were the aluminium manifold being tourched. Also why the pressure relieve best be vented away from interior.

  O.J.  #521   

[Carl Nolen]

This is what Gary is talking about. This is an old pic of my car building my system. Gary recommended the barrel valve to control the nitrous flow to the soleniods. A must for safety and soleniod life. I shut the valve off after a run and bleed off the juice. Keeps the pressure off the soleniod seat and nitrous out of the motor in case the soleniod leaks. I turn it back on right before the run. A good habit to get into is to crank the motor over a few revolutions leaving the ignition off to bleed off any possible nitrous in the induction area.



Another good feature of this setup is I can open the nitrous bottle while the valve is shut. I can watch the pressure at the guage and the heater blanket psi switch (not shown here, added later) can see the bottle pressure to control bottle psi.

Man, this is a old thread. I did get it all together and been running juice for two years now. Having the best time of my racing life right now juic'in it. Run as quick as 10.54/6.58 in 60 degree weather. Run 6.70-6.90 most of the time depending on outside temperature.

Carl

[onjuice]

Carl, those sparks reminded me of a nite at Redline a couple of years back. Doh!!
.040 nitrous + .020 fuel =  sh#t!!

  O.J.  #521   

[Carl Nolen]

Here's a spy video of Gary's test run. Notice how he purges through the motor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz7jCbttTV0&NR=1

Awesome, huhh??

juice it baby --------------------------carl